LOGIN

RSS Facebook Twitter YouTube
GLOSSARY       

SEARCHGLOSSARY

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

PROFILESEARCH

Avatar

Please consider registering
guest

sp_LogInOut Log In sp_Registration Register

Register | Lost password?
Advanced Search

— Forum Scope —




— Match —





— Forum Options —





 

Minimum search word length is 4 characters - maximum search word length is 84 characters

sp_Feed Topic RSS sp_TopicIcon
Cycling My Aquarium
March 6, 2008
9:11 am
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi there,

First of all, this is a great site that has helped me a lot so far.

I am new to fishkeeping, but have done quite a bit of research so far.
I am getting the complete tropical aquarium set from TetraTec.
I know that the aquarium needs to mature and that the bacteria grows in the filter. A book I read stated now that live bacteria should be introduced to aid the maturing of the tank for the first 2 months. However, the tank comes with the Tetratec Easy Crystal Filter 250. This uses exchangeable filter pads. Do you know if those come preloaded with the bacteria? If they don't I will never achieve a mature aquarium in the first place.

Sorry, this might be a daft question.

Another question I have is that of gravel size. I read on here that it should be medium gravel (2-3mm). Apart from size, are there any differences? I am planning to have plants, do I need special gravel for them?

Thanks for your help,

Sofia

March 6, 2008
9:42 am
Avatar
dunc
Admin
Forum Posts: 1323
Member Since:
June 7, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Welcome to the website, Sofia /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Not a daft question at all - it is actually one of the most commonly asked questions in fishkeeping.. and unfortunately often one which is very poorly answered..

There's a lengthy, detailed article written by our Mr Swinley here discussing all aspects of "cycling an aquarium", but I'll try and summarise things for you.

Firstly - the tetratec sponges will be totally dry and unopened, so no, they don't have any live bacterium. Unless the bacterium have a constant source of ammonia to feed on, they will rapidly die off. A lot of aquarists are suspect of these so-called "live bacteria" bottles availables in most aquatics stores! Anyway, read on... /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

There are a number of ways of cycling an aquarium but basically what it boils down to is colonising your filter media with the specific types of beneficial bacteria (nitrosomonas) to help break down fish's waste. Fish produce waste as ammonia (highly toxic to them even in small quantities) and the nitrosomonas can break ammonia down to nitrites and nitrates, which are less toxic to the fish.

Now the important part. As Andrew says:

QUOTE(Mr Swinley)
These bacteria are naturally occurring and will begin to reproduce anywhere there is a food source (ammonia or nitrite) but need somewhere to live while carrying out this process. For the fishkeeper, this place is your filter.


Therefore, you don't need to add any "mature" bacteria or anything like that. At a later date, such as if you decided to setup a new tank alongside your current one, you could use some of the mature filter media alongside new filter media to help colonise the new media very quickly.. but obviously that's a no go if you don't have any mature media.

Thus there are a few ways of providing ammunition to start the nitrogen cycle.

One commonly seen method is to put a few select, hardy fish in to the tank during the maturation period. Mollies are often used as they can be particularly tough. In personal experience I find Zebra/Leopard Danios to be unbelievably tough! Naturally, during this time, the tank isn't the most welcoming home for the fishes. A stringent regime of water changes must be adhered to, literally every few days for the first 4 to 6 weeks. That can be tough, especially if you have a busy schedule.

Another option is to directly introduce ammonia. Not sure if you're from the UK, but if you are, Homebase sells "household" ammonia; perfect for the task.

QUOTE(FishForums.net)
Yeah, you can't buy pure ammonia in the UK. It's dangerous stuff.

The stuff from Homebase is what you need as Scotslass says. It's called 'Household Ammonia' and is ammonia diluted with water. The final product is 9.5% ammonia (if i remember correctly) and is ideal for cycling your tank.


You would then dose the tank with ammonia regularly before putting any fishes in, using test kits to measure the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. Once ammonia and nitrite levels had peaked and bottomed(probably around 4 to 6 weeks time), the tank would be considered mature and colonised with bacteria.

One method that seems to be in employment more often these days is to add fish food to the tank before adding fishes. Rotten fish food also produces ammonia and thus can similarly trigger the nitrogen cycle. Make sure it all gets hoovered up before the fish go in though!

Obviously it's up to you how you do it. If you have time, the first method is perfectly viable - just make sure you really are stringest with those partial water changes (25% or so every 3 or 4 days, especially in the first two weeks). Otherwise be patient and use one of the latter two methods.. it seems to take longer because your aquarium is sitting bare for a month but it does the job and is safer than starting the nitrogen cycle with fishes in the tank.

As for your second question...

There's no real difference in gravel size, merely aesthetics. Aquarists tend to move gravel to one side, put the plant roots in the hole then cover them with gravel to weigh the plant down until it roots. As long as the gravel isn't so big that that wouldn't work, and as long as you have enough gravel for that to work, there should be no problem.

There are specific plant substrates which help plant growth and so on but that's an entirely different subject!

Feel free to ask us ANY question, no matter how "daft" you think they might sound! There are a load of articles in the Knowledge Base about setting up aquaria too but we do apologise, very few of them are properly formatted etc at the moment.

Hope that helps /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

March 6, 2008
9:52 am
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hello Dunc,

Thanks for your fast response and your welcome! I will read the article now.

I am in deed in the UK and am planning to get the following fish once the tank is matured:

4x Platy
6x Harlequin
2x Ram
1x Bolivian Ram
6x Cardinal Tetra
3x Ruby Barb
and 1x Siamese Fighter

I was planning to get the Platy in first, as I read they were feeding off algae and could help keep a new aquarium clean.

Re the filter. It says on the box that the filter pad should be changed every 4 weeks, so I will never really end up with a mature aquarium. I assume it must be somehow pre spiked with beneficial bacteria, because it would be impossible to keep fish otherwise (that's what I think, but I am clueless)

I will take a look at substrates and decide. However, I was mainly worried about the fins of a siamese fighter, as I read that they could get injured on sharp gravel edges.
I just don't want to do anything wrong.

Re frequent water changes. I am currently still a student, so would have time to do the water changes, especially as I will have handed in my project by then. Are the Platies a viable fish to put in to aid the maturing of the aquarium?

Thanks in advance for any help /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

March 6, 2008
10:11 am
Avatar
dunc
Admin
Forum Posts: 1323
Member Since:
June 7, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

QUOTE(Sofia @ Mar 6 2008, 09:35 AM) < {POST_SNAPBACK}>
Re the filter. It says on the box that the filter pad should be changed every 4 weeks, so I will never really end up with a mature aquarium. I assume it must be somehow pre spiked with beneficial bacteria, because it would be impossible to keep fish otherwise (that's what I think, but I am clueless)


I've just had a look at the filter you're contemplating purchasing and you're indeed correct, it does say "change the filter cartridge every 4 weeks". All I can imagine however is that by "filter cartridge", they actually mean the pre-foam or carbon. If you change the actual filter sponge media every 4 weeks, your fish will be constantly re-living the nitrogen cycle and thus being put through huge ammonia, nitrite and nitrate spikes.

It's possible that a small amount of filter media stays in the filter permanently and thus every time new media is inserted it is recolonised, but I'm really not sure. That isn't a filtration system I've heard of before. Maybe Matt will be able to enlighten us when he gets on /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

QUOTE(Sofia @ Mar 6 2008, 09:35 AM) < {POST_SNAPBACK}>
I will take a look at substrates and decide. However, I was mainly worried about the fins of a siamese fighter, as I read that they could get injured on sharp gravel edges.
I just don't want to do anything wrong.


That's an admirable attitude, and one we love seeing in new fishkeepers! Don't worry about the Fighter's fins. Most aquarium substrates are perfectly safe and your fighter probably won't come in to contact with it anyway.

QUOTE(Sofia @ Mar 6 2008, 09:35 AM) < {POST_SNAPBACK}>
Re frequent water changes. I am currently still a student, so would have time to do the water changes, especially as I will have handed in my project by then. Are the Platies a viable fish to put in to aid the maturing of the aquarium?


Unfortunately Platies aren't as hardy as they once were. They often come in to the shops with rather poor immune systems and thus become particularly susceptible to diseases, especially when in an aquarium which isn't fully mature.

Mollies and Danios tend to be your best bet. A little shoal of Zebra Danios can be really attractive in an aquarium - go see if your local aquatics shop has any in, you might find you quite like them! /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

March 6, 2008
10:50 am
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Thanks again Dunc.

I will ask about the filter, but you are right as far as I can see. There are two bits in the filter. They are both exchangeable, but they don't get changed at the same time /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

It's good to know that I still have to mature the tank, as I would have donme anyway, but wasn't all that sure.

Thanks for all the advice and all the prompt responses. I really appreciate all the advice.

I will certainly take a look at other fish. I am still quite soem time off buying fish and that was only really the third list of fish I liked.

Apart from the Mollies and Danios, what other of my current choice would be an ok first fish to add? Sorry for all these questions

March 6, 2008
4:06 pm
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

QUOTE(Sofia @ Mar 6 2008, 10:33 AM) < {POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks again Dunc.

I will ask about the filter, but you are right as far as I can see. There are two bits in the filter. They are both exchangeable, but they don't get changed at the same time /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

It's good to know that I still have to mature the tank, as I would have done anyway, but wasn't all that sure.

Thanks for all the advice and all the prompt responses. I really appreciate all the advice.

I will certainly take a look at other fish. I am still quite soem time off buying fish and that was only really the third list of fish I liked.

Apart from the Mollies and Danios, what other of my current choice would be an ok first fish to add? Sorry for all these questions


Hello again,

My boyfriend had a look and pointed out that there is indeed a bit that houses the bacteria and is never changed in the filter. So that question is answered.
Thank you

March 6, 2008
8:03 pm
Avatar
Matt
Málaga, Spain
Admin
Forum Posts: 8239
Member Since:
June 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Sofia, welcome to the site /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Well I won't write you an essay because Dunc has answered almost everything but I would say that you can do away with those carbon pads after the first couple of weeks; you shouldn't need to run those once the tank is mature and they can cause problems if you have to treat the tank for disease, for example, by adsorbing (not a spelling mistake /tongue.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":p" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" /> ) chemicals.

In terms of substrate I'd go for the smallest grade gravel if you can find it. Plants grow better in it. If you want them to grow really well then consider adding a bag or two of a plant substrate product under the gravel. These release beneficial chemicals and minerals slowly and really do make a difference if you're growing plants.

As for your fish list...how big is the tank? I'd be wary about adding three potentially territorial cichlids to a small tank. I've also seen Siamese fighters attack both rams and Bolivian rams; they don't tend to get on with any similar-looking species.

Best of luck with your first tank! /biggrin.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> We'll be glad to help with any other questions you have, no matter how trivial they may seem. And thanks for the nice comments about the site, I'm glad you're finding it useful. It's very new and there's loads still to do so I hope you stick around /wink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Cake or death?
March 6, 2008
10:21 pm
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Matt, thanks for the response.

QUOTE(Matt @ Mar 6 2008, 07:46 PM) < {POST_SNAPBACK}>
I would say that you can do away with those carbon pads after the first couple of weeks; you shouldn't need to run those once the tank is mature and they can cause problems if you have to treat the tank for disease, for example, by adsorbing (not a spelling mistake /tongue.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":p" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" /> ) chemicals.


Do you mean that I should get only the filter pad? I think the filter comes with kind of a double pad. One is normal filter media and the other is carbon. One is green and one white. I have seen that they do the filter pad without the carbon and if that is better in the long run then i will certainly get those after using up the stock that comes with the aquarium.

QUOTE(Matt @ Mar 6 2008, 07:46 PM) < {POST_SNAPBACK}>
As for your fish list...how big is the tank? I'd be wary about adding three potentially territorial cichlids to a small tank. I've also seen Siamese fighters attack both rams and Bolivian rams; they don't tend to get on with any similar-looking species.


I am looking to buy a 60l tetra tank. Measurements are 24" 12" 15" I think.
Are the cichlids the barbs? Sorry, very new and don't know their scientific names yet.

I would love to have a fighter, because he was the one that made me want to start a tropical aquarium, but obviously the fish must be given priority.

Do you think that even introducing the fighter before the potentially territorial ones would help the situation?

Thanks,

Sofia

March 7, 2008
12:51 am
Avatar
Matt
Málaga, Spain
Admin
Forum Posts: 8239
Member Since:
June 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Sofia, no I don't think that would help to be honest. The thing with keeping fighters in community tanks (and I assume you're referring to the long-finned type?) is that their delicate finnage can become damaged very easily...it's also just too tempting for many species not to just have a nip at it. Tiger barbs are the most commonly-quoted example, but there are loads of fish that will act in a similar way.

In my opinion a community containing a fighter (because it is possible) should be centred around it. Set the tank up to give that single fish the conditions it needs to thrive, and choose tankmates to suit. For example, fighters are quite poor swimmers due to their long finnage and natural origin. This is a species that likes still water. In a tank with a fast flow from a filter outlet or powerhead, the fighter will always seem to be struggling, and will never be seen to its full potential. For similar reasons avoid any really vigorous feeders, especially if they are bigger than the fighter. Remember this is a slow-moving fish that is a poor swimmer. It will easily be outcompeted for food with the wrong tankmates.

Finally (for now /tongue.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":p" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" /> ) Fighters are territorial with certain species, most particularly those that look similar through fishy eyes. Male guppies with their flowing finnage are a prime target, and dwarf cichlids like your rams can also come under attack, or vice versa.

So-o I reckon you have a choice. If you keep the fighter there are still a bunch of species you can keep with it (some very beautiful), but the tank must be tailored to its needs, and it will probably be the biggest fish in there. If you decide on the cichlids I wouldn't go for more than a single pair of either species in a tank that size. Either set-up has some really nice potential. You could even choose fish and plants from Southeast Asia if you decide on the fighter, or South America for the cichlids.

Any more questions fire away /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Cake or death?
March 7, 2008
9:40 am
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Matt,

Thanks for all the advice.

QUOTE(Matt @ Mar 7 2008, 12:34 AM) < {POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi Sofia, no I don't think that would help to be honest. The thing with keeping fighters in community tanks (and I assume you're referring to the long-finned type?) is that their delicate finnage can become damaged very easily...it's also just too tempting for many species not to just have a nip at it. Tiger barbs are the most commonly-quoted example, but there are loads of fish that will act in a similar way.

I was referring to the long finned one, but after a chat this morning with my partner we decided that we will start off the fishkeeping without the fighter. If we get on well then we might establish a second tank with a fighter the centerpiece /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

In respect to the Rams... I have currently both written down simply because we couldn't yet decide, but think it will be only one type. However, the barbs might get exchanged now with tiger barbs or so (they were our initial choice, but were scrapped due to the fighter).

I will let you know how I get on. Tomorrow we will set up the aquarium, so I might be back that soon with more questions /biggrin.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

Thanks for all the responses

Sofia

March 7, 2008
10:12 am
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

QUOTE(Matt @ Mar 7 2008, 12:34 AM) < {POST_SNAPBACK}>
You could even choose fish and plants from Southeast Asia if you decide on the fighter, or South America for the cichlids.

Can you give me an example of South American fish and/or plants?
I guess the plants are more important for now, as I am far off having any fish yet /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Thanks

March 8, 2008
3:15 pm
Avatar
Matt
Málaga, Spain
Admin
Forum Posts: 8239
Member Since:
June 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Sure /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> If you decided to do a South American-themed tank you could also use sand as a substrate instead of gravel. Just mix some plant fertiliser stuff in before you add it to the tank. It would certainly be truer to nature.

Easy plants include Amazon sword plants. There are loads of varieties of these but by far the commonest is Echinodorus paniculatus. These are dead easy to grow and you'd only need a couple in your tank, as the leaves grow quite long. Heteranthera zosteraefolia is really nice, and grows like stink.

Hydrocotyle leucocephala grows quick too, and needs a lot of pruning. I like the look of the red Alternanthera species as well but never find them easy to grow. I know a good place to get plants online if you'd like me to pm you the link?

Fishwise, there's loads of choice. Cardinal tetras are really beautiful, but you've already mentioned them. Here's a few more ideas, all suitable for a small tank /wink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />
Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi - Black Neon Tetra
Inpaichthys kerri - Purple Emperor Tetra
Hemigrammus bleheri - Firehead (usually sold as rummy-nose) Tetra
Nannostomus trifasciatus - Three-lined Pencilfish
Corydoras panda
Corydoras pygmaeus
Rineloricaria lanceolata or parva
Any of the various Otocinclus species (O. cocama is especially nice)
Smaller plecos such as Ancistrus sp. (3) or if you wanted to splash out a little there are loads of beautiful species available such as L260

Hope that gives you some ideas Sofia. Don't forget to keep us updated /biggrin.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

Edit - personally I think a 24" tank is too small for tiger barbs. The pentazona barb, Puntius pentazona is far more suitable in my opinion, and more peaceful too.

Cake or death?
March 8, 2008
3:40 pm
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Thanks for that Matt.

Sadly the guy in the store had no idea about the plants, so I picked a twisted vallis, a Echinodorus andreuxii, Hygrophila rosae australis and I think a Mayaca. I have only tried top identify them myself and it might be wrong.

We also have a nice piece of bogwood that is covering up the heater.

I'll attach a picture, so that you can take a look and let me know what you think /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Attached files

[Image Can Not Be Found]

March 8, 2008
4:00 pm
Avatar
dunc
Admin
Forum Posts: 1323
Member Since:
June 7, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Looking good, Sofia /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

I'd recommend trying to purchase some tank backing too - basically just a roll of photographed paper which attaches to the back of the tank. Can make a remarkable difference in the way your tank looks.

March 8, 2008
8:23 pm
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Thanks /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />
We had forgotten about that in the store today, but will get some hopefully /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

March 9, 2008
6:46 pm
Avatar
Matt
Málaga, Spain
Admin
Forum Posts: 8239
Member Since:
June 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Cute set-up /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Cake or death?
March 9, 2008
10:05 pm
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Thanks /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

I was wondering...the water has gone slightly cloudy. Will that go away or do i need to do anything?

I also tested for ammonia and nitrite today, but still 0. Is it right to have started testing?
And also, do i need to put fish food in to start the ammonia spike?

We have changed our decision about fish and have now
6x Harlequin Rasbora
6x Cardinal Tetra
4x Eight Banded False Barb
4x Male Guppy
3x Ram
2x Platy.

Will those fish be ok with pH levels of 7.6? I read that I can get something to lower or put the pH higher than that. From what I read they all meet at 7.5, however, the page I used has got different information on their pages. The fact file says x and the description says z. Very confused.

Thanks for all the help so far

March 10, 2008
9:01 am
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

I have tested Ammonia and Nitrite again today and they are both still 0
However, I did a low range pH and a high range pH test. The low one said 7.6 so practically was maxed, which made me think that maybe our pH is off that chart. So did the high one and yes, it went up to 8.0!
In the description it said that if the test result of the high end one was not on the chart the water would stay clear, or at least not do anything.
The low end one ranges from 6.0 to 7.6 and the high range one from 7.4 to 8.8. I assume that the high range one is the correct one. Which leaves me with a fairly high pH.

Apart from testing the water for ammonia and nitrite, do I need to do anything to the tank? I read somewhere I should put fish food in?

Thanks,

Sofia

March 10, 2008
6:10 pm
Avatar
Matt
Málaga, Spain
Admin
Forum Posts: 8239
Member Since:
June 13, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Sofia,

Don't worry about the water. It's very common for newly set up tanks to go through a short period of cloudiness. This is caused by a bloom in microorganisms and will settle after a few days; I'd just leave it as it is.

The pH is a bit high for some of your fish choices yes. The rams are certainly a no-no unless you can get the pH down, and I'd be tempted to ditch the cardinals, barbs and harlequins too. All of these species come from acidic waters in nature. Granted, they might survive (particularly the harlequins, but definitely not the rams) but they'll never show their best colours. Have you tested your tap water to see if the pH is changing once inside the tank? Do you have kH and gH test kits?

To get the tank cycling (start the nitrogen cycle off) you can indeed use fish food. It won't be a very quick process using this system though. Other people add a few hardy fish to start the cycle off. The disadvantage here is that those fish will have to exist in less-than-ideal water conditions for a few weeks whilst the tank matures. The other main method, and one that has grown in popularity in recent years is "fishless cycling". Try googling that phrase and see what you find. /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Ps - if that's you in your avatar you're a very precocious typer /tongue.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":p" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" />

Cake or death?
March 10, 2008
7:22 pm
Avatar
Sofia
Veteran
Forum Posts: 303
Member Since:
March 6, 2008
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline

Hi Matt,

That is indeed me. 21 years ago /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

It seems that the water starts clearing now a bit (I might imagine that though).

I will be away for a week over Easter and am fine to cycle the tank fishless as i won't be back in London until the 27th. So might get started with the first fish in the beginning of April.

I read somewhere that there are things that can lower the pH in the water. I am really keen on having the fish I selected, so i am happy to make changes to the water.

I fon't know what kH and gH are. I have a liquid master test box. I'll go to test the water from the tap now and let you know if i have those two tests.

Thanks for now

Forum Timezone: Europe/Paris

Most Users Ever Online: 246

Currently Online:
1 Guest(s)

Currently Browsing this Page:
1 Guest(s)

Devices in use: Desktop (1)

Top Posters:

Stefan: 1567

Plaamoo: 1257

mikev: 1134

Malti: 1099

Mark Duffill: 1012

Member Stats:

Guest Posters: 0

Members: 30511

Moderators: 0

Admins: 2

Forum Stats:

Groups: 4

Forums: 10

Topics: 4603

Posts: 36641

Newest Members: dg, Jamieson22, FraziersAquarium, world renowned, granamyr

Administrators: dunc: 1323, Matt: 8239