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Help Newbie
April 18, 2010
8:06 am
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Flutterbye
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April 15, 2010
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Hello I have only been keeping fish for approx 6 months so I am still a baby at this.

I have been treating my 200L tank with Myzaxin for the last 3 days as I have noticed a couple of fish have very red gills. I went to the LFS yesterday for my weekly water check and he said he wished everyone's water was this good so all parameters are correct. However, last night I noticed the start of white spot on one of the fish. I know I cant put Protozin in now and after reading a few posts I have slowly turned the water temp up to 30 degrees. (m yonly worry is I have some gold barbs and I believe they like a cooler temp)

The big question is have I done the right thing. Do I continue as I am doing or shall I stop the Myzaxin and add the carbon back in the filter and do big water changes for a couple of days then start the Protozin ???

Also another question when the parasites come off the fish are they still live in the tank and does the tank still have to be treated.

Sorry if these are really stupid questions but I have the best interest of the fish at heart and after losing quite a few in the beginning of keeping them it is heart breaking.

Thanks so much for the advice
Kim

April 18, 2010
10:23 am
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Eyrie
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I'd stop adding the Myxazin and do a big water change. Reddened gills could be a number of things and it would be helpful to know the exact readings for ammonia and nitrIte.

A couple of 70% water changes today (one this morning and one in the afternoon) will remove most of the Myxazin and allow you to start treating immediately for white spot. Do a thorough gravel vac both times as well. This assumes that you do regular water changes of 25-30% every 7-10 days.

If you only change water once a month then such large water changes can in themselves be harmful as the tap water and tank water will have very different parameters which can result in osmotic shock. Under those circumstances you'd need to change 30-40% twice for the next 2-3 days instead, which gives you a chance to run carbon in the filter as well. Remember to remove the carbon before adding the Protazin.

I'd also turn the temperature back down until you've added the Protazin. The reason for the temperature increase is to speed up the ich life cycle, which is something to be avoided until the medication is present.

Finally you're spot on about the ich still being present in the tank even if it's not visible on the fish. The white spots are only part of the life cycle and another part is spent in the gravel (hence the gravel vac mentioned earlier). As a consequence it's important to finish the entire course of treatment even if the white spots appear to have gone.

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April 18, 2010
11:10 am
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jenste
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April 14, 2010
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also, I would invest in your own water testing kit - it is better to know the exact readings of your water parameters over a period of time - - it will help you see if your tank is on the verge of an ammonia spike and you will be able to act, rather that see the after effect . . . sick fish!

water test strips are pretty much a waste of money - - get your hands on a liquid water test kit

also, frequent small changes are much more beneficial to the fish than spaced out large water changes.

also, you said a 200l tank....what is your full stock list?
it may look understocked/perfect now, but if you just started keeping fish 6 months ago, chances are your fish were bought young and may make your tank OVERstocked as they reach adult hood!

April 18, 2010
5:33 pm
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Flutterbye
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Thanks for the very quick replies.

First water change done. I always use a gravel siphon so that's something I am doing right, I have also put the carbon back in the filter until I have done the rest of the water changes before adding Protozin. I do a 20% water change 2 twice a week usually a Sunday and Wednesday so that looks right.

I have used the strip tests in the past but I have read on several sites they are not accurate so I have been taking a weekly sample to LFS they test free. Is it a master kit I need to order (please advise what I need).

At the minute I have 8 neon tetras, 6 black neon tetras, 6 xray tetras, 6 gold barbs, 3 mollies, 2 platies, a male and female guppy (lost the other female on Friday but will not replace until the tank settles again) and 2 BN plecs can you please let me know if the stocking levels are ok please. I have been told that the levels are ok and I could add more fish with the size of the tank. I take a list of what I have whenever I got to a LFS. I can never work out the calculations and you get so many conflicting figures on how many inches per litre. I would rather go by peoples experience.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Kim

April 19, 2010
7:48 pm
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Eyrie
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You need test kits for ammonia, nitrIte, nitrAte and pH. Liquid kits are more accurate than test strips and work out cheaper in the long run. A master kit such as that from API is cheaper than buying the tests individually. If you live in a softwater area then a test kit for gh and kh is also handy.

Your stocking looks fine to me. Every rule of thumb calculation should be ignored as there are too many variables involved (body shape, activity, waste production, territoriality, aggression, sociability). Worst are those based on so many inches of length per gallon/litre which take no account of the fact that a 6" fish needs a lot more space than six one inch fish simply due to its additional height and breadth.

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April 19, 2010
8:00 pm
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jenste
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your stocking seems to be fine - - be careful with all of those livebearers though!! mollies, platies, and guppies should be kept with a minimum of two females per male....otherwise the males can try to mate with female so often that she dies from exhaustion. guppies and mollies can also cross breed to give you "muppies" (sounds cute but most of the offspring are infertile and have other birth defects)

also, do you have any plan for the babies you will end up having....mollies guppies and platies have generally from 30-200 fry (babies) per drop. guppies can have babies every 4 weeks, and mollies and platies ever 6-8 weeks. livebearers will literally breed to maximum capacity - - they want to reproduce as much as possible to make sure their numbers are safe.

also, a female livebearer can hold sperm in her body for 6 months - - that means for 6 months she can fertilize herself even with out a male around and keep having babies! - - and say she has even one male survivor of her first drop - - by the time she runs out of stores sperm her son will be old enough to impregnate her and all of his sisters!

your best bet is to stick to one species of livebearers, and if you don't want babies, stick to only males. for mollies and platies both males and females are attractive, and in guppies the male ones are the ones with the brilliant coloring.

to ease your own stress....planning a stocking that will prevent you getting over run with fry would probably be your best bet.

a master kit is your best bet....but to save money you can just buy test kits for ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite - - those are the most important readings!

April 21, 2010
6:49 pm
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Flutterbye
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April 15, 2010
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Thanks again for all the replies I really do appreciate the help.
I have ordered a master test kit so that will give me more peace of mind.
My male guppy is acting really strange and hiding. I have just seen a glimpse of him tonight.

I might take the female guppy back after your advice as the 3 mollies and 2 platties I have look like males and I dont want to run into problems with cross breeding.

I did have an unexpected surprise though. I found a baby guppy yesterday morning. It was hiding behind the filter and I dont know how long it had been there as the females gave birth a while ago before they passed away. There is no sign of any more so they must have been eaten. The baby is now in the breeding net I rushed out to buy and is doing well.

Thanks again for the help
Kim x

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