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Quarantine Tank - Set Up Advice
April 16, 2010
8:03 pm
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Kit117033
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Forum Posts: 38
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March 28, 2009
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Hi everyone.

Firstly I'm not sure if this is the right place for this post....so please feel free to move it if necessary.

Quick question - how to set up a quarantine tank quickly?

Long, boring but necessary details - I have two tanks (a 60ltr and a 125ltr)

The 125ltr is relatively new - been set up for approx 2 months and home to lots of shrimp (9 Amano, 5 Cherry, 3 Green, 3 Bumblebee, and an unidentified brown one) 3 flying fox, 3 upside-down cats, & 6 male Threadfin Rainbows. The tank is planted with Vallis (?) Anubias on bogwood (one large leafed and one small leafed) it also has a large piece of bog wood and a piece of coconut shell covered in moss! I have been adding "JBL Atvitol" every day and so far have very happy contented fish! /thumbs_up.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":thumbsup:" border="0" alt="thumbs_up.gif" />

The 60ltr is approx 3 years old and currently home to a Chinese Algae Eater, one upside-down cat, 2 Dwarf Chain Loach and approx 25 Guppies + 35 baby Guppies in a breeding net!

The problem I have is that the guppies have got white spot! They have had it about 3 weeks now, I have tried Melafix to no avail, then I tried Interpet whitespot but that did nothing either, so now I am treating it with Exit Whitespot treatment. I have been doing regular water changes throughout. I would like to separate the loaches and catfish and eventually put them in the larger tank!

I have borrowed an AquaOne 35ltr tank from a friend. I put 30ltrs clean water (treated with de-chlorinater) in 15th April. I took one sponge from my fluval 2plus (60ltr tank) and put it in the tank to help seed the filter (fluval U1) also on 15th April. I also added a small sprinkle of flake food as I heard this can help speed up the process!

So back to the main question..... have I set it up correctly? And how soon can I put the loaches/cat in?

Sorry for droning on but I tried to give as much info as I could /wacko.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":wacko:" border="0" alt="wacko.gif" />

/laugh.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="Laugh" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Thank you for your continued support and advice /laugh.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="Laugh" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

April 17, 2010
9:37 am
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Eyrie
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Couple of separate issues here.

The first is how to set up a q-tank, and what you've done is spot on. The fish can be moved over immediately as the filter sponge already contains the necessary bacteria that convert the ammonia (and resultant nitrIte) produced by the fish into nitrAte. However if the tank is left without fish then the bacteria will go dormant in the absence of an ammonia source and will then start to die off.

The second is that, unlike most diseases where the infected fish should be isolated for treatment, ich requires the whole tank to be treated and moving fish from there to another tank simply means that you will have to treat both tanks.

In addition to using the Exit I'd recommend turning the temperature up to 86F and increasing the surface disturbance as warmer water contains less oxygen. The reason for doing this is that ich is only vulnerable to treatment at one stage in its life cycle, so speeding up the life cycle exposes it to treatment more often within a given time frame. I'd keep adding Melafix as this is safe to use at the same time as other medications and, being an anti-bacterial, will help prevent any infection setting in where the white spots are.

If the current course doesn't clear it, do a large water change with thorough gravel vac and repeat the entire course again (even if it looks like the ich has gone part way through).

Mature, sensible signature required for responsible position. Good prospects for the right candidate. Apply within.
April 17, 2010
10:36 am
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Kit117033
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Forum Posts: 38
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March 28, 2009
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QUOTE (Eyrie @ Apr 17 2010, 10:20 AM) < {POST_SNAPBACK}>
Couple of separate issues here.

The first is how to set up a q-tank, and what you've done is spot on. The fish can be moved over immediately as the filter sponge already contains the necessary bacteria that convert the ammonia (and resultant nitrIte) produced by the fish into nitrAte. However if the tank is left without fish then the bacteria will go dormant in the absence of an ammonia source and will then start to die off.

The second is that, unlike most diseases where the infected fish should be isolated for treatment, ich requires the whole tank to be treated and moving fish from there to another tank simply means that you will have to treat both tanks.

In addition to using the Exit I'd recommend turning the temperature up to 86F and increasing the surface disturbance as warmer water contains less oxygen. The reason for doing this is that ich is only vulnerable to treatment at one stage in its life cycle, so speeding up the life cycle exposes it to treatment more often within a given time frame. I'd keep adding Melafix as this is safe to use at the same time as other medications and, being an anti-bacterial, will help prevent any infection setting in where the white spots are.

If the current course doesn't clear it, do a large water change with thorough gravel vac and repeat the entire course again (even if it looks like the ich has gone part way through).

Thank you for your prompt reply Eyrie

I will increase the temp slowly to the infected tank and start putting Melafix in as well as the Exit (I didn't know that you can combine them)

The main reason that I wanted to move my loaches (and cat) is because they are meant to be eventually in my larger tank. I have observed them and they show no signs of illness so far. If I quarantine them I can continue to observe them and only treat them if necessary as I have heard that they are more sensitive to medication.

Thank you so much for your advice /thumbs_up.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":thumbsup:" border="0" alt="thumbs_up.gif" />

Kit x

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