September 1, 2011
Hopefully, I will soon be acquiring an AquaOne 620, which holds 90 litres, or 23 gallons. I have recently joined a local aquarium society and they have inspired me to start getting in to the breeding side of the hobby. However, my problem is this: I will only have this one tank in which I will be able to do it. I might (might) be able to wangle parental permission to set up my 14 litre/3.5 gallon tank in my bedroom (heater, sponge filter) as a fry tank, but that's it.
So, I need a species that follows roughly the following requirements:
- either won't eat its fry or has fry which can be raised in a 14 litre tank
- won't breed uncontrollably
- won't need me to seperate males and female to keep bloodlines pure (I want to do this properly)
- won't need the genders to be seperated after mating due to aggression
- can breed in 90 litres
Sadly, it rules out the two species I really want to do: guppies and betta splendens.
I'm considering corydoras panda, but I hear they are tricky. I've also heard many conflicting opinions on whether or not I could leave the eggs in the tank (it would be species only, or just cories and RCS). If anyone could suggest a good species for me to try or to give me advice on corydoras panda, that would be amazing. Thanks so much! /smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />
July 24, 2010
C. panda aren't tricky in my experience. Some individuals do like to eat their eggs though. It's very simple to breed many species of fish in a single tank and there are various ways to do this. However you asked about C. panda so here's how I have done it.
Firstly you are better having only 1 species in the tank (in your case C. panda). This allows to you optimise the tank to the species and gives you a better chance. There's loads of advice on furnishing tanks elsewhere so I won't go into that here except to say I recommend sand as a substrate.
Assuming you have a breeding group you need to condition them. Live food is best but you can get reasonable results with a mixture of good quality dried foods such as Tetra Tabimin and frozen food such as bloodworm.
In many cases this is all you need do. Keep the water quality high with regular water changes and they will likely spawn. C. panda will spawn amongst plants and on the glass. If they are a little reluctant try waiting a couple of weeks between water changes then changing half the water. Often they will spawn a couple of days after the water change.
Remove eggs as soon as you find them. Gently roll them off the glass with your fingers. Put them in a margarine or ice cream tub filled with tank water. I try and stick them to the side of it, this makes it easier for the fry to hatch.
Add a little anti-fungal to the tub and add an air-stone bubbling gently. Float the tub in your tank. Each day tip half the water out and replace with tank water.
The fry will hatch after 3 or 4 days. Keep changing the water daily but don't feed yet. Remove any egg cases with a pipette.
After another 3 or 4 days your fry will need fed and this is the tricky part. Best first foods for cory fry are microwrom (live), pre-soaked crushed flake or tablet. Make sure you only feed a very little, the water is easily spoiled in such a small container.
Feed twice a day and an hour after you feed remove any uneaten food, clean the tub and change half the water. I usually have 2 tubs on the go in case of disaster. Also to clean the tub I transfer the fry, water and all to a third tub, clean the original tub (give it a good wipe inside with a sponge to remove any film from the bottom) and tip the fry back in.
As the fry grow you can feed a little more. After another 3 or 4 days you can start to feed baby brine shrimp. You now have a decision to make.
New hatched brine shrimp make great food for growing on fry but they can spoil the water in a matter of hours if you over-feed and they die off. Your fry will be over a week old now and will likely survive in the main tank. You can either continue to keep them in the tubs or tip them into the main tank. If the latter try and make sure the water isn't too deep. Lower it as much as you dare and slowly raise it over the next few days.
To increase your fry survival provide them with shelter. A pile of large pebbles or broken crockery is good. Anything that prevents the adults getting at them. I use old ceramic noodles from cannister filters.
If you choose to keep your fry growing in tubs don't do it for too long. Get them in the main tank as soon as you dare. You might release a few and see if they survive, after a few days if all is well release the rest.
Keep up the water quality but don't make too large water changes. 20% every other day should do it. The fry will eat what you give to the adults and the adults will eat baby brine shrimp too.
C. panda will be ready to move on after 3 or 4 months.
September 1, 2011
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