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  • in reply to: Stocking a 24 inch long 5 gallon? #355440


    Ah, okay. Thank you again for all your help. ūüôā

    in reply to: Stocking a 24 inch long 5 gallon? #355438


    Thank you so much. Comparing videos of both loaches, it looks like the rosies might be a bit more active, but they’re small enough that I think they might make good dither fish. I do wonder how M. cruciatus would fare as well, though. I never heard of the species before today.

    I’m not sure about eyespot gouramis, but I’ve seen both sparkling and chocolate gouramis available locally. I actually almost got a few sparkling gouramis at one point– they’re super neat little fish. I might give a Betta a shot first since I can get a 5 gallon setup for it pretty easily if it doesn’t work out, but these guys are definitely a second choice ūüôā Also wonder about T vittata as from what I know the species is less shy than T pumila, but I highly doubt they’re different from honey gouramis here.

    in reply to: Stocking a 24 inch long 5 gallon? #355436


    Yes, that makes sense. And I’m also wondering about some of the small schooling/shoaling fish which aren’t recommended for the dimensions of a regular US 5 gallon but nevertheless have a low bioload. For example, I see a number of fish recommended for an 18×12″ tank, which is roughly about the same amount of swimming space that I have, albeit with different dimensions. That leads me to wonder if they would be appropriate for my tank. I also wonder about rosy loaches and honey gouramis among others, though I’m pretty uncertain about them and have some serious doubts.

    in reply to: Stocking a 24 inch long 5 gallon? #355434


    Sure. I only have test strips right now so it’ll be somewhat rough, but: pH is 7 (might be a bit lower, the water hasn’t been airing out for very long), KH is 40 ppm, and GH is 30 ppm.

    in reply to: Stocking feedback for 29 US gal? #355303


    @Byron Hosking said:
    First, on the parameters…why does a GH of 30 ppm (= mg/l) concern you? ¬†So long as you stay with suitable soft water fish this should cause no issues; my tap water GH is less than this, at 7 ppm, and I add nothing in seven tanks to raise the GH. ¬†Assuming the KH is also low, the pH should lower slightly below 7 naturally, which is ideal.

    It’s actually at 7.2 and seems to be fairly stable, though I’d need to double check it. The GH only concerns me because the profile on here for diamond tetras recommends a minimum hardness of 5 degrees, which is higher than 30 ppm. However since you’ve been successful in keeping them, perhaps I shouldn’t worry so long as I acclimate my fish properly.

    It also looks like softened water to me. The landlord doesn’t even know what a water softener is, though, so it’s a bit of a mystery.

    Now to the stocking, which has some issues, so I will begin by saying that there are many factors involved when mixing species in a community tank. ¬†Water parameters is one, water flow another, the decor (substrate, wood, rock, plants, etc), activity level of each species, and obviously temperament/compatibility. ¬†Many focus on the latter but ignoring the others will lead to problems. ¬†So with that in mind…
    The barbs I would forget.  This species, like most all of them, are quite active fish, and this means not only more length to swim but the effect this has on sedate fish, like the Bettas and even the cichlids.  The Diamond Tetras are getting close here too, but as you really like them I think you can build a community around them in your 29g.  A group of 6-7 should be OK.  I am sort of conceding here, as personally I would want this species in a longer tank.  I have had them for many years, always in 4 or 5-foot tanks, and there are fry in the group.

    Usually I use the profiles here since they seem to err on the side of caution much more than many people and websites that I’ve found.

    I was leaning towards the diamond tetras over the barbs myself, so that’s fine. Not sure if there’s another fish that I can think of to substitute… I like red eyed tetras, but those seem to need more space, not less.

    The Nannocharax brings with it the need for stronger water currents, and this is something the kribs will not appreciate, and the Diamonds may not be too pleased either. ¬†You are wise to have not selected the filter until you decide on the fish species, as there are variances as you can see, and a 29g tank is not large enough to have “one size fits all,” so to speak.
    The rosy loaches should be fine, but I would not add kuhlii loaches.  Combining different loaches takes some thought.  The loaches are very social species, so groups always, but they can be territorial.  Not much is known of the rosy loach yet, though Loaches Online says it is active.  I would just mention here that if kribs do enter the tank, and if you intend spawning with successful rearing of fry, this is not likely to occur with substrate fish that are very adept at eating eggs and/or fry during darkness.  And yes, in reverse the kribs will not take kindly to any substrate fish poking into their territory; I have seen this with corys, loaches and the SA Characidium (similar to the African Nannocharax).  Even without a female present, my male Dicrossus hounded the Characidium mercilessly, and I have observed similar toward corys and whiptails from Apistogramma females and Mikrogeophagus.
    I won’t suggest other species until I have a better idea of which way you intend going with the above. ¬†Hope this helps get things started.

    No darters, got it.

    I was actually thinking of adding locally bred GBRs instead if I could find them because they’re less aggressive, but it sounds like they would be more intimidated by the diamond tetras. Still possibly worth considering I guess?

    I suppose that makes it

    -6-7 diamond tetras

    -a top dweller or a top and middle dweller, IF the diamond tetras don’t frequently hang at the top of the tank. Otherwise it doesn’t have to be a top dweller (or if needed I can just drop it altogether). I don’t really know what to add here. I already have a silver fish so I don’t want silver hatchetfish or lampeyes. Marbled hatchetfish are supposed to be shy… Daisy’s ricefish look like¬†they go to the top (I don’t really know… I have trouble finding schooling topdwellers, I think), and the Trichopsis genus seems like it could fit as well? They’re small so maybe a little breeding wouldn’t hurt too much. I’d need to look into it.

    -A pair of kribs or GBRs. (I want to watch parenting behavior and kribs are more forgiving, so they might be the better choice overall? The rams at the store seem more personable though.)¬†I would like any cichlids I add to spawn, but I don’t have a grow out tank, just a quarantine. If that’s okay for the fish, then I might drop both the loaches. If not, it’ll be either one cichlid, cichlids and egg eaters (I’m pretty¬†hesitant on this since I can see it going very wrong),¬†or substitute a labyrinth fish or some other centerpiece for the cichlids altogether.

    -I would like a small pleco or other solitary catfish, but I can see this also being an issue with them eating cichlid eggs and having a lot of waste. With another centerpiece, I’m more likely to get one. I’d also, again, go back to having a loach… Which species depends on how much activity I want and where, I suppose. Unless you had a reason not to add kuhlis besides not mixing loaches? (If it’s either loaches OR catfish, that’s fine too.)

    The order of adding would be diamond tetras first, possible other groups and anything else next, centerpiece last.

    As a side note, I was thinking of adding leaf litter to my tank. I suppose that would effect the parameters. Also, I’ll probably have a mixture of live and silk plants in there to provide cover.

    I’m trying to find something stronger than a sponge filter that still has minimal noise and current… I can probably buy something pretty¬†nice if I wait until after Christmas. I just don’t know what… High GPH canister filters create a lot of current, right?

    I’m planning to grow at least one type of live food, so if a fish needs to be fed live (unless it’s wingless fruit flies or snails), I can do it.

    (Oh gosh, sorry that was so long!Embarassed)

    EDIT: I’ve read varying things about the minimum temperature requirements of rams. I will be keeping it in mind if I choose them.

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