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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 30 total)
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  • in reply to: Cloudy after water change. #354580


    @pj said:
    If you do want to get red of the snails,… cut a cm thick slice of the bottom of a tomato (wash it first if not biologically grown). Remove seeds and gel-like substance. Put it on the bottom of your aquarium just before the lights go out at night. Eat the remaining part of the tomato (just because it is healthy for you). Take it out in the morning before the lights come on,… together with all the snails that gathered there to feast on it….

    Thanks PJ I’ll try that if they get too numerous. :-)

    My tank water cleared rapidly after a 10% water change last Monday and all seems well now. I’m taking some water to the shop this week for testing to see if their results match mine and find out if I can safely add some fish.

    in reply to: Cloudy after water change. #354541


    @Byron Hosking said:
    Cloudy water that is whitish in appearance (as opposed to being greenish) is usually due to a bacterial bloom.  It may also be due to microscopic sediment in the water, but this would appear right after the water change, so we are most likely dealing with a bacterial bloom.
    As organics increase, bacteria increases to feed on the organics.  You might be surprised to see the level of organics dissolved in tap water, regardless of chlorination.  The bacteria that consume the organics are termed heterotrophic.  Heterotrophic bacteria cannot synthesize their own food so they need organic material such as fish waste, dead bacteria, fish and plant matter, etc., all of which are organics.  While some of these bacteria are aerobic, many are facultative anaerobes, meaning that they can survive in either the presence or absence of free oxygen.   
    Heterotrophs appear sooner and faster than nitrifying bacteria which are autotrophic.  They build many of the biofilms that all bacteria use to adhere to surfaces, and they reproduce much faster, around 15 to 60 minutes, compared to hours for the autotrophs.  The “organic waste” in the water itself feeds the heterotrophic bacteria and they very rapidly reproduce and cloud the tank milky white.  This will occur in fishless cycling with just ammonia.  It is usually less likely, or will be minimal by comparison, with live plants because they assimilate nutrients from organics.
    On the snails, in my view they will in a sense help in cycling so I would not be too quick to remove them.  They are a natural part of an aquarium’s biological system, and can be very helpful.

    Thank you Byron, that’s very helpful. :)   We live next to a Cider farm and they have an effect on our water pressure from time to time.  The local water company have also been doing work that sometimes makes the tap water cloudy so that may well be it.

    This morning (Monday 27th) the water did look slightly clearer and I was due to do a water change today anyway so I changed 10%.  I am going to take some water to the place where I got the tank from along with the records I’ve been keeping and see if I’m ready for fish soon.

    in reply to: Hello! #354524


    Thanks for your help.  I shall ask about hardness when I get the test. They are very helpful and the place I go to so they should steer me in the right direction :).

    I now have a problem with cloudy water which I’ve just written a new post about.  I just want my fishies now, dagnabbit! :-P

    in reply to: Hello! #354469


    Here’s the water report for my area in .pdf format.

    in reply to: Hello! #354454


    I haven’t bee at my desktop for a few days so no chance to upload the water report but as we were talking about ammonia levels the other day I wanted to mention that my ammonia levels spiked a while ago like the test kit guide book said they would. 

    in reply to: Hello! #354435


    @george said:
    Your pH looks quite high to me. A lot of fish species, such as harlequin rasboras, prefer neutral to soft pH. 
    If you don’t mind having dark-colours water (which I find quite nice and natural looking actually), you could try popping a few dried Indian almond (catalpa) leaves or other safe leaves (http://www.seriouslyfish.com/all-the-leaves-are-brown). You could also try using peat pellets such as Eheim’s TORFpellets in your filter. That’s what I did. It got the pH down to 5 – 5.5.
    As I said, community fish usually prefer, soft acidic conditions. Many of them are tank bred and more adaptable, but they definitely will feel better in their natural water conditions and might even breed.

    Thanks for your advice George, I don’t mind what colour the water is as long as it’s healthy and my fish are happy :).  I actually quite like the look of a ‘weak tea’ tank, it looks so natural.  Would I have to reconsider my planting options?

    I finally managed to get a water quality report but there are so many numbers and parameters it’s a bit baffling! Can you tell me the particular ones I should be looking at?

    RE PH: I am doing two separate tests for High and Normal PH ranges and I’m wondering if that’s wrong – should I just do the normal one unless it goes off that scale, in which case I’d do the High PH test?

    in reply to: Hello! #354429


    Hello Everyone,


    The tank is coming along nicely (and I love the new filter, I only know it’s running because the plants move! Haha).


    Byron – I’m not adding ammonia and have been feeding my plants as per the instructions from the day I got them J


    Barb Man – thank you so much for those suggestions, there are fish on that list I hadn’t even heard of! I am going to start with Harlequin Rasbora and try to build a community of fish that would naturally occur in the same area.


    Only one fly in the ointment, today I was cleaning the glass with my new magnetic cleaner and didn’t notice there was a single grain of substrate in the part of the cleaner that goes on the outside until it was too late and I have a lovely scratch on my tank! AGH! Fortunately my Dad works next door to a glazing company that may be able to help me with a solution. I’ll attach a photo of the scratch to this post. I have tried jeweller’s rouge as suggested by numerous websites but the scratch is too deep.


    I haven’t been able to get a full report on my water values yet but I have the latest results from my water tests I’m doing at home:


    PH – 7.6

    Hi PH – 8.2

    Ammonia – 0 PPM

    Nitrate – 0 PPM

    Nitrite – 5 PPM


    I will have had the tank 6 weeks next week so I will take some water to my local fish shop and get them to test it for an official result.2015-04-14+17.00.28.png

    in reply to: Hello! #354396


    1. Today I liberated the plants from their pots and swapped the supefish filter for the Fluval U2 and it is indeed practically silent!  I managed to get the charcoal pellets and some of the foam from the previous filter into the new one so some of the good  bacteria is in there.  I’m about 4 weeks into my cycling phase so do you think my estimation of another 3 weeks is about right (water tests permitting of course)?
    in reply to: Hello! #354383


    Thank you, that’s a great help!  I shall see if I can find out what the water parameters are iny area. Thanks for the advice on the fish, I shall ammend my ‘wish list’ accordingly.

    in reply to: Hello! #354378


    @knutschi said:
    You need to take the plants out of those pots.

    Is that because they’ll become pot bound like other plants? I’m feeding them regularly so will they be ok in the substrate I have?

    in reply to: Hello! #354376


    Thanks for your replies everyone – I’m sorry I took so long to get back to you as I haven’t figured out how to ‘watch’ a topic yet and be notified of replies :).

    As you can see by the photograph, my aquarium is looking much more ‘up together’.

    I am doing the necessary water tests at intervals recommended by the booklet that came with my test kit and I am starting to understand what everything means. The last ammonia test I did on the 26th was 0ppm.

    I have bought some great books which tell me what kind of substrate, temperature and PH each species prefers.  I’m not going to rush the selection process, I figure time spent now will set me up for greater success when I actually come to getting my fish.  I want a peaceful community tank and so far the species I’m looking at are:


    Black Skirted Tetra

    Harlequin Rasbora

    Golden Barbs


    If I just end up keeping one species and learning everything there is to know about it for now I’m perfectly happy with that. :)

    With regards to the filter, the guy at the shop said it would be fine to put it under the water (which I didn’t know by looking at the placement instructions on the box!).  I tried that and the noise is better but still rather loud.

    He showed me a fluval filter and I’ve been reading the reviews of the U2.  One person who is a light sleeper and has his tank in the bedroom like me said it was so quiet he had to put his ear right up to the tank to check it was running, which makes me think that’ll suite me fine. :)


    Many thanks for your help, I’m sure I’ll be back to ask more questions soon! ;)


    in reply to: SNAIL INVASION!!!!!!!!!! #354365


    Thank you Byron, that’s extremely helpfuil :)


    I recognise ‘my snails’ as the second-from-bottom photo.  They haven’t touched any of the healthy leaves on the few plants I have and actually seem to spend most of their time scooting up up and down the glass.

    I don’t mind if they eat fish eggs and I have a very soft spot for snails so I shall just enjoy them for now :).

    in reply to: SNAIL INVASION!!!!!!!!!! #354349


    I was about to post the same thing!

    Yesterday morning I found a tiny little snail scooting around my brand new setup and I was wondering what to do with it.  It’s a freshwater tank so I was wondering if I could try catching the critter and relocating it to my pond or if it’s OK to leave it in there to finish the cycling process and just keep an eye on it to make sure there isn’t a population explosion.

    I’ve only seen one snail so far, but I was wondering if there’s anything I could add to the water at this early stage to stop any eggs hatching?

    Thanks :)

    in reply to: Hello! #354337




    I went back to the shop when it was quieter and got some great advice. I have exchanged the original tank for a Super Fish Aqua 65 (65 litre) tank and the guy at the shop talked me through everything I’d need.  Upshot is I came home with everything I need for setup and maintenance plus plants for £20 less than the original tank alone!

    As you can see from the photo, the tank looks a bit bare at the moment but I am going to add a back ground and lots more plants soon.

    The only issue I’m having is with the filter that came in the starter kit.  It’s an Aqua-Internal filter 200 and it’s *noisy*.  I don’t mind the sound of the water (I find that rather relaxing) but the sound of the motor inside the filter has played havoc with my sleep (the tank is in my bedroom) and I really need something quieter!  Also it says this particular filter is for tank sizes 10-200 litres and though I’ve managed to slow the flow of water I really don’t want to give my poor little fishies concussion when I get them! :-P

    I have been looking for quieter filters and came across the Stingray and saw it getting good reviews on Amazon so I wondered what you all thought of it?

    in reply to: Hello! #354319


    Thank you for your reply. I shall keep reading here as I’m sure I’ll grow into it as I get my confidence. :-)

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