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Ich Treatment And Carbon Filter

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    Hi All! I am in the process of completing Ich treatment (unfortunately I lost two fish in the process). It has been approximately 1 week now since I started the process, i.e., raising temp to 85degrees, doing daily water changes (approx 5 gallon change for a 75 gallon tank), adding Ich treatment (QuickCure with Formalin and Malachite Green), using Selcon with fish food and removal of carbon filter. It’s been approx 5 days since I’ve seen those ghastly white spots on my fishies. I have two questions:
    When can I introduce new fish (responsibly)?
    Could I still use the carbon filter and Biofilter media?

    Any help greatly appreciated!



    I’s recommend you quarantine any new fish for three to four weeks before adding them to the tank. That will give you time to ensure that the newcomers aren’t carrying anything and also to check that the ich has gone.

    Carbon should always be replaced after use and never left for more than six weeks before removal. However it isn’t necessary to run carbon all the time and the space can be used for other media.

    The other media in the filter will be fine, assuming you’ve left it in the tank during treatment.



    If you got rid of it in 1 week you’re lucky. I wouldn’t count on it. When I used similar products I’d treat for 2 weeks. If it were me I’d quarantine that tank for at least 4 weeks before I’d consider it clean. And always quarantine new fish like as Eyrie said. Good luck!



    Hello, sorry to hear about your fish losses.

    In my experience one of the most effective means of combating ich is to raise the temperature to 86 F for a period of 2 weeks.

    Keep in mind this may not be the best for species that prefer cooler water, however for most tropical fish this is fine and far less stressful than chemical treatments. It is also much easier.

    The temperature prevents the parasite from completing its life cycle. It dies before being able to infect more fish and continuing the cycle of infection, reproduction, maturationelopment, and another infection. *EDIT* glanced over your post and only saw the chemical treatment, re-read and saw you used heat as well. You really have whacked that little parasite over the head hard! I would wait to introduce fish until you have the temp down for over a week to see if it comes back, I suspect it would be good and dead after 2 weeks of your efforts.

    I have used this several times with great success. I keep dwarf shrimp, so chemical treatments that contain copper are not an option.

    Quarantine is your best bet against infectious disease entering your display tank. A quarantine tank can be a simple setup with a bare bottom, low light, heater, and an air stone, HOB filter, or even a sponge filter. 2-4 weeks of careful observation is a good idea. You can also use the quarantine as a hospital tank and treat infected fish there. However, with ich the parasite moves into the substrate after being released from the cyst on the fish so to eliminate it the tank must receive treatment. I prefer the heat treatment.

    You won’t hear of this from a pet store because then they can’t sell you all of those fancy chemicals, and generally the staff just know to point you to the right meds.



    In my opinion, heat alone is not a reliable method of treating ich. I have read positive accounts such as yours ShadowMac, but many more that were unsuccessful and the parasite returned. I’ve tried heat, salt, heat & salt. The parasite would always re-occur down the road. The best, easiest treatment I found was Kordon Rid-ich, following the instructions on the bottle. That is until I discovered flubendazole. I have successfully treated ich with a 5 day treatment of flubendazole, and for the past 2 years or so have treated all incoming fish in quarantine with it and not seen ich since.

    Here is a good article on the subject. http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/ichthyophthirius

    Though they all follow the same life-pattern, there are countless strains of Ich, some harder to kill, some more virulent. Bad news comes in from all over: Ich has traditionally succumbed at temperatures over 85oF, but in the 1990s new Florida “strains” were reported that could survive temperatures as high as 90o,



    that is very disheartening to hear some strains are now able to survive the heat treatment. I am glad I have not had this strain.

    I was unaware flubendazole could kill ich. I have used it in the past for shrimp, in low doses, to treat some unwanted parasites. This would be another “shrimp safe tool”. Thank you for the link.

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