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New Dwarf gourami setup

Home Forums My Aquarium New Dwarf gourami setup

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 53 total)
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    Posts
  • #349550

    Jakub
    Participant

    Hi David

    Promising setup, I especially like the piece of bogwood you picked because it can provide a very different display depending on the viewing angle.

    As for using leaves in aquarium, Colin described the subject in    this    in-depth article.

    Regards

    Jakub

     

    #349552

    Rüdiger
    Participant

    Hi David,

    Tank looks great so far. If the leaves were still attached and not too close to a busy road, just rinse them under cold water to get the dust off. If you boil or microwave them you”d kill all the little buggers that are beneficial for the little fish to come. The “low growing plant” looks like what is commonly sold as New Zealand Grass Lilaeopsis brasiliensis but could be another Lilaeopsis sp. too.

    It will, in time, grow into a lovely lawn, which will be thoroughly explored and enjoyed by the Dwarf Gouramies.(Edit: It’s SPARKLING GOURAMIES of course ;-) )

    Keep the photos comming. :-)

    Regards

    R.

    #349554

    Saxodave
    Participant

    Thanks Jakub and Rüdiger. I feel happy to use the leaves now. While collecting the beech leaves I did happen to pick a handful of dried alder cones as well so I may add a few of those to the water too.

    The plant I didn’t have a name for is indeed Lilaeopsis, I just saw it at another fish shop an hour ago!

    Main task now is to camouflage the pesky heater and filter. 

    #349555

    Rüdiger
    Participant

    Hi David,

    perhaps you want to have a look here and check out the “mobile HMF” solution. You could still use the pipe you fabricated and hide the heater in there. If you need more info on how to, just let me know.

    Regards

    R.

    #349559

    Saxodave
    Participant

    Thanks Rüdiger

     

    I had already read your very interesting and informative HMF article and did in fact consider it for this tank. However, I got sidetracked and went off on a tangent and ended up with the result you see above. The heater I have is quite long, too long to go vertically, so I may consider buying a shorter one, although I don’t really want to replace something that works perfectly well.

    The mobile HMF filter is something I may still tinker with while I am waiting for the tank to mature a bit! (If I can find some black foam that isn’t carbon impregnated).

     

    The tank now has some washed beech leaves floating in it after reading yoour reply and ‘Colin’s’ article.

     

    Kind regards,

     

    David

    #349567

    Saxodave
    Participant

    DSCN0740-1.JPGDSCN0741-1.JPGI have managed to move the filter to hide it a little more plus a little extra planting should take it out of sightline.

    Water seems to have gone milky. Is this as a result of the gravel substrate or is is the foam filter not filtering out the v.fine particles?

     

     

    #349568

    Jakub
    Participant

    David:

    how long has it been since you added the leaves or any other recent decor change? It does take a bit of time to clear after a disturbance. As for hiding the filter and such, I wouldn’t panic over it too much. By all means do plan how to hide it, but allow for plant growth – what may look a bit sparse now, should be fine once the plants have settled and grown.

    Regards

    Jakub

     

    #349572

    Saxodave
    Participant

    Jakub.

    I only set the tank up yesterday morning but it all seemed to settle and the water looked clear. Now it’s up to temperature (about 26 degrees) it has this milky appearance. The leaves were only added today but they don’t seem to have affected the water clarity.

     

    You’re quite right about subsequent plant growth but it is sometimes difficult to look ahead!

     

    Kind regards,

     

    David

    #349573

    Rüdiger
    Participant

    Hi David,

    it is quite normal in a small, brand new setup for the water to turn milky. Not only are there probably still suspended solids in the water but also bacteria starts to develop (bacteria bloom). Eventhough it is very tempting to try and remedy the situation somehow, it is actually best to do nothing at all. Give the tank about a week to settle, don’t change the water and don’t add any water conditioner. You will see how after a couple of days the water becomes clearer again and after a week should be cristal clear. 

    If you were planning on a fishless cycle you could start adding ammonia now, otherwise leave everithing as is.

    Regards

    R.

    #349653

    Saxodave
    Participant

    Water now clearing although I don’t think the filter is removing much suspended matter from the water. However I do have a another problem which concerns me. The Java moss I attached to the bogwood appears to be dying, well, the majority of it anyway. I am concerned that the decaying moss will pollute the water. The tank is now in-situ under a shelf which makes it impossible to remove the bogwood if I need to cut the dead moss away or re-tie new stuff. It’s not ideal and you probably think I am stupid for positioning it there but I can get access to filter, heater, light and can do water changes easily enough. Should I be overly concerned about the decaying moss?

     

    Thanks,

     

    David

    #349654

    Rüdiger
    Participant

    Hi David,

    I never had much luck with java moss tied to anything, only wit loose “cushions”, so I know what you are talking about. But there are a few things you can do about the dead or decaying moss. If you haven’t added any ammonia to the tank you could just suck it up with a lets say 12 mm hose pipe and replace the water. You could add a couple of larger snails, which will take care of the decaying matter rather quickly. And you could leave everything just as it is. The tiny “leaves” of the java moss won’t make up a lot of decaying matter and the “stems” are rather hard and will remain intact for quite some time. Once you do the first planned partial water change you just clean up as good as possible.

    As far as the filter is concerned, do you know what kind of sponge you used, e.g. what grade (pores per inch) it is? Is it a normal replacement sponge for a bubble filter? What are the specs of the diaphragm pump connected? If you can supply some anwers to that, we’ll get to the problem.

    Regards

    R.

    #349655

    Saxodave
    Participant

    Hi Rudiger

    The foam I am using is an Algarde 45 Foam Element, I believe it is a replacement for the Algarde Bio Foam Filter 200. I am not sure the pores per inch. I have to admit that the air pump I am currently using is perhaps not high spec but always worked okay in the past. It is a Hi Tech 1000 MK-801 and although it is transferring some water up the outlet of my filter, it seems to be bubbling a lot and not bringing up as much water as I would like.

     

    As for the moss I will have to try to get my tweezers  and gravel cleaner near to suck up the dead. It’s a shame because the bogwood now won’t look as good as I had hoped.

     

    Now…snails. I spent a rather long time eradicating, by hand, quite a few hundred tiny, red ramshorn-like snails from this aquarium before setting up this design. If possible I don’t want another snail explosion! Are you suggesting snails that would fit in well with the kind of blackwater/Asian/leaf-litter set-up I am trying to re-create.

     

    Kind regards and, once again, thank you for taking the time to answer my queries. It is much appreciated!

     

    David

    #349656

    Rüdiger
    Participant

    Hi David,

    the snails were just a suggestion and the best bet, the one eating the decaying matter but leaving your plants alone, would indeed be the ramshorn. As I mentioned, you don’t have to worry too much about that bit of dead moss.

    As for the pump, I was more concerned that it might be too strong. I don’t think there’s a diaphragm pump on the market too small for a 10 gallon tank. :-)

    How do you introduce the air into the uplift tube? I’m asking because if air is introduced directly e.g. via 4/6 mm tube it only works at about 50 % efficacy, especially if you work with a “re-bent” pipe like you did. Unfortunately I am a bit short of time at the moment, so perhaps you could have a look HERE to start with (make use of the g….. translator) and if you have more questions, I’ll answer within a couple of days. But one thing I can tell you already: You’ll have to pull the tank out of that shelf again to fix the filter. You should think about better access to the tank anyway since you’ll have to clean that small sponge quite regularly.

    Regards

    R.

    Edit: Perhaps this is a bit more comprehensive.

    #349749

    Saxodave
    Participant

    Interesting about the efficiency of air lift due to bubble size. I never knew that. It has inspired me to design my own version of this at some point. However I assume my DIY effort is working quite well as I just tested the water and Nitrate = 10ppm and Nitrite = 0. The tank seems to be cycling well.

    The light levels have now been lowered to a level I am happy with by a liberal surface covering of Amazon frogbit and Lemna minor.

    As for tank access: luckily I can do all necessary maintenance through the lid flap except take the bogwood out. filter foam cleaning won’t be a problem.

    Is it too soon to start lightly stocking with fish? I was going to put a few dwarf rasboras in before the gouramis.

     

    Regards,

     

    David

    #349750

    luffy
    Participant

    If you do put a few snails in there, the gourami will keep the population in check. As soon as I put gourami in my tank which had quite the community of snails that had snuck in on the plants, the snail population took a dive. Only a few adults that were too big for their mouths survived, while the baby snails were eaten almost immediately when they hatched. The gourami loved having live food too, which is a plus.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 53 total)

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