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  • Entomancer

    @Plaamoo said:
    My go to is flubendazole. It’s a little bit messy but I’ve never had adverse reactions and it works 95% of the time for me. Actually.


    I read your discussion on using Flubendazole on the rainbowfish forums a few days ago and bookmarked it. Very useful information, and thanks for the link to buy some.

    Anyway, I’ve sadly lost all but three of the barbs, but the chloroquine seems to have stopped the outbreak. A few also got to my B. brigittae, and dosing them the same way (1/8 tsp per 10 gallons; I don’t know what mass this is but I might update this later if I can find my pocket scale). So far the B. brigittae are stressed, but they are doing alright. 


    Byron, I appreciate the advice, but I don’t that’s going to work for B. hulstaerti.

    Butterfly barbs do not tolerate temps. above 75 F very well. They really need to be kept below 75 F or so, and they are soft-water fish that really need a pH of less than 7 and they seem to prefer a pH of less than 6.5.

    My problem is that many of the typical treatments will treat the tank of the parasite and the fish. I’m looking for other options; since the original post I’ve tried metronidazole with no success, and now I’m trying chloroquinone phosphate. I started with 13 barbs and I’m down to 7, so I’m running out of time. I’ve also tried H2O2 in the past with little luck; according to some of my findings, it can destroy the parasites during the cyst stage, but the last time I tried it there was only one survivor, and I now suspect that the lone survivor is resistant and acting as a vector (which would be the source of this outbreak).

    Any ideas? I’ve found instructions for preparing medicated food, and I’m going to do that in combination with the chloroquine phosphate. I’ve found a report of someone stopping an ich outbreak by feeding their fish medicated food (with metronidazole), so I’m going to give that a try.

    in reply to: Rain water problem… #355363


    Update 3.

    I performed another bioassay with a variety of vernal pool invertebrates that I use to feed my fish.

    The invertebrates were mostly cladocerans, but there were also two different species of ostracod and some copepods.

    After being immersed in the rainwater collected from the roof for 24 hours, there did not seem to be any adverse effects, aside from perhaps some empty bellies due to be separated from any kind of food source.

    After reconsidering the scenario, it is entirely possible that I was lucky and the landlord did not apply any moss killer to the surfaces that drain to my apparatus. That part of the roof is west-facing and has zero canopy cover; any mosses growing there have no shelter and dry out completely in hot summer weather, while most of the other surfaces have nearly complete canopy cover and have noticeably more moss growing between the shingles.

    So I guess I was lucky. I’d also like to add, again, that while it is true that there are potential pitfalls in collecting rainwater from shingled rooftops, it is entirely safe if:

    1) The roof is kept clean

    2) The roof is kept free of animal feces, or frequent inspections show little or no fecal matter present.

    3) The surrounding region has relatively low levels of air pollution

    4) The roof has not been treated chemically in any way for at least several years

    5) There are no copper or zinc strips on the roof (another popular anti-moss [bryocidal?] measure).

    in reply to: Rain water problem… #355361


    @BillT said:
    They also breed frequently so all developmental stages might be present.
    Molluscs are reputed to be sensitive to copper/zinc which is why I suggested them.
    Conceptually a bioassay is pretty simple. A negative control could be helpful of you do find some positive results to your assay (to rule out something like contamination from something other than the test water, but it doesn’t seem you need it.

    I have a 10 gal. tank outside full of daphnia, copepods and other things I caught from a vernal pool that I’ve been using to supplement feedings.

    I thought of using them for a bioassay when you brought it up, because they’re probably more sensitive. I’m just reluctant to do so because they’re really useful as a food item and I don’t want to “waste” them.

    But I want to be sure, so I think I’ll try that next. Thanks for the advice.

    in reply to: Rain water problem… #355359



    I thoroughly rinsed the part of the roof that contributes to my collecting apparatus, and allowed the roof to be rinsed again by some heavy rains recently.

    I collected some more water for testing. pH was 6.4 – 6.6, which is normal (I’ve tested it prior to the moss killer application and had similar results). Regretfully, I do not have access to a TDS/conductivity meter, but I’ve ran one bioassay with snails (unknown species; they’re not planorbids or thiarids; I think they are lymnaeids but they grow much larger than “pond snails”); there have been no deaths within 36 hours, and the snails are not acting stressed.

    Bill T, do you have any experiences running a bioassay like this with snails? It’s not rocket science, but I want to make sure I did it correctly before I blithely assume that the water is safe.

    in reply to: Cycling my 29 gallon #355356


    Your plants may be absorbing all of the ammonia.

    Did you fill the tank with water from your tap? If so, I really doubt you’re low on carbonates, unless you have very soft/acidic tap water (it’s generally kind of rare in the US).

    in reply to: Rain water problem… #355353


    @Byron Hosking said:
    Rainwater is ideal for soft water fish species provided the source is safe.  But rainwater should absolutely never be collected from roof run-off.  Chemicals from the shingles and animal excrement (bird, squirrel, racoon, rats all scamper over roves) are major issues.
    The only safe method is to place a large container out in the open, away from trees.  If one is really serious about collecting rainwater, a large collecting container could be constructed.  But never use run-off from roves.


    You know, I’ve read this more than a few times, but I’m not having any problems doing it this way.

    1) I live in an area without much industrial activity (for now…).

    2) I clean the roof frequently with a push broom and if I find animal feces I rinse them away with tap water and don’t collect anything for a few days while the rain finishes the job. It’s worth noting that I have found animal feces once or twice, and it’s pretty hard not to notice (house isn’t large, is single-story).

    3) The shingles are old enough at this point that any hazardous compounds are long, long gone. “Normal” shingles don’t release toxins forever. The part of the roof that drains into my collection apparatus is also away from any trees.

    4) I’ve been using this stuff for over a year at this point, in some tanks almost exclusively, and I’ve had absolutely zero problems with anything. I also keep a few orchids and carnivorous plants that receive water from the same source, and I have no problems there, either. I even have a bunch of freeloading daphnia, snails, bloodworms and other critters in my storage barrels, and I’ve seen no die offs, ever.


    I understand why I need to be cautious, but I think this is a scenario that needs to be considered on a case-by-case basis. I actively work to keep my roof clean and I live in an area without a lot of air pollution, so I can collect rainwater from my rooftop without trouble. There was a long period of time during which the water I was collecting was crystal-clear without any settling particles, and it took nearly six months to change; just before the moss killer was applied my collected water was getting very slightly cloudy.

    in reply to: Rain water problem… #355351


    @BillT said:
    I don’t know much about washing that stuff off but, it sounds like you may be keeping your fish in soft water. If so, this makes your problem more difficult since copper and zinc toxicity goes up in soft water and is reduced in hard water.
    If you can get hold of some of the material (or perhaps look up its chemical properties) you could see what might dissolve it before trying to do the whole roof.
    From my experience running a research zebrafish facility, I know zinc and copper can have adverse effects on zebrafish down to fractions of a part per billion concentrations (both chemicals present at the same time, so might not be so bad in your case) in soft water (below 30 microS of conductivity). The test for these levels cost about $100/test (about 10 years ago).
    I would expect these chemicals to affect molluscs also (probably more so) so I would try using snails as a bioassay for the chemicals after you try to remove them.

    Yeah, the increase in toxicity is my main concern here.

    Using snails as a bioassay is a great idea that I didn’t think of; I have an overabundance of pond snails at the moment, so it would be very easy to set this up. I think I’ll try spraying the roof several times and then using the snails as an assay.

    in reply to: A few new fish! #354372


    Pretty sure Plaamoo got these from The Wet Spot. It’s my local shop (relatively speaking), and while it is located in Portland, Oregon, Bellingham isn’t terribly far away by car. They had those gobies in really recently and they showed up on their weekly update blog.

    I would have bought some, but I’m not terribly experienced with gobies aside from Brachygobius sp. Judging from the morphology, Sicyopus sp. probably needs a tank with some current, and I was unprepared to offer those conditions in a timely manner.

    I’ll make do with the Indostomus watching me cautiously from the tank to the right of my keyboard…

    in reply to: Hello, and some biotope-setup questions. #350407


    @Rüdiger said:

    @Catre said:
    Is it Loma fern? (Lomariopsis Lineata)

    I believe so Catre. The German word is however always misspelled in the english language due to the fact that letters are used, which don’t exist in that language. These are the letters “ß”, which is pronounced as a sharp “s” and the “ü” which is a socalled “Umlaut”. The entire word “süßwasser tang” meaning freshwater kelp, “süß” actually meaning sweet. Since the englisch qwerty keyboard supports neither ß nor ü, the correct way of writing would then be “suesswasser tang”. I thought that might be of interest to some.



    Yeah, that’s the one.

    The store that I bought it from had it labeled as “subwassertang”. I figured that it was German or one of the other European languages, but I have little knowledge of them, so I wasn’t sure.

    When I got around to looking up the plant to try and find the scientific name, I did a Google search for “subwassertang”, but got results with the word “susswassertang”. Your explanation makes perfect sense.

    And yeah, I also found shortly after that it is indeed Lomariopsis sp. Strange plant…it really does look like freshwater kelp, but it is a fern that never transitions beyond the gametophyte stage of its life cycle. It’s almost like how some animals are neotenic and never get past their larval/childhood forms…

    Anyway, the tank is probably cycled now. I haven’t tested the water yet, but I added some duckweed just in case there’s any extra nitrogenous wastes that need to be mopped up. There are also some copepods that mysteriously appeared in the tank; I had collected some dead leaves from a pond for some salamander larvae that I am raising, and I put some of them in there, so I bet there were a few clinging to the wet leaves. I think I might try to keep them alive while I finish the tank; it would be pretty cool to be able to introduce the first fish and have live food already there for them to snack on.

    The next steps will be to find a suitable piece of root-wood for my “tree root” idea, and to finalize my plant selection…

    in reply to: Hello, and some biotope-setup questions. #350308



    You know, that’s an inspiring idea, but I’d be concerned about space (some bromeliads can get big) and I think I would have to keep the water pretty low (as in, low for the size of the tank) in order to avoid waterlogging the roots and accidentally killing the plant. Maybe if I’m rich someday, I’ll just turn an entire room into a big walk-in fishtank with a walkway and tropical plants growing all over the walls.

    If I had a huge tank to play around with, it would work, and it would look amazing, but in a tank this size, I doubt I could do bromeliads. I was thinking more in the vein of mosses/liverworts.

    I found some “subwassertang” at a local shop last week, and I was trying to figure out what the heck it actually is (it looks for all the world like freshwater kelp). Apparently, it’s actually a species of fern that never exits the gametophyte stage of its life cycle. It looks kind of like a liverwort, only bushier, and according to what info I was able to dig up, there are species native to the biotope I’m trying to base the tank on.

    I got quite a bit of it, and I was planning on using it for my nano, but I have so much that it could almost fill the nano, so I might spare some and attempt to grow it epiphytically on the wood by allowing the wood to just break the surface of the water.

    Depending on what other plants I could find out about that match my biotope, this may allow me a good surface to put a few different epiphytes down. 


    in reply to: Hello, and some biotope-setup questions. #350288


    Gah, I forgot about the footprint, how silly.

    It’s “standard”, so that means about 75 cm long, 30 cm wide, and 45 cm tall. Sorry I didn’t reply to this sooner, my laptop is broken, and school/work is eating up most of my time otherwise.

    Also, I forgot to add that I was also thinking about Carnegiella sp. (maybe the marbeled sp.?) for something interesting for the upper portions of the tank. I have lots of Limnobium sp., so perhaps I could use some of that to help them feel secure. I was thinking about placing the frogbit next to the end of the rootwood, so that it doesn’t get bounced around by the filter flow.

    So, again, does anyone have any idea of some epiphytes that would fit the biotope that I could attach to the wood?


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