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PJ

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Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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  • in reply to: 60x30x30, What to do in my aquarium? #354726

    PJ
    Participant

    Hi Lex, I am from the Netherlands too.

     

    Concept 1:

    Ditch the australe’s and make sure to get 2 female Trichogaster chuna (old name = Colisa chuna).

    You could add 2-3 Pangio semisincta (kuhli) (Indische modderkruiper).

     

    Concept 2:

    Same thing, no Corydoras, make sure to get 2 female Trichogaster lalius (old name = Colisa lalia).

    Add 2-3 Pangio’s as bottom dwellers.

     

    Concept 3:

    The conchonius is too large for your tank, especially as it is a very active swimmer and is a schooling fish (min 7 in a tank).

    The Carnegellia’s combine well with the Panda’s and you could add a couple of dwarf cichlids (for example an easier Apistogramma species) from South America.

     

    Hope this helps you.

    PJ….

    in reply to: Cloudy after water change. #354575

    PJ
    Participant

    If you do want to get red of the snails,… cut a cm thick slice of the bottom of a tomato (wash it first if not biologically grown). Remove seeds and gel-like substance. Put it on the bottom of your aquarium just before the lights go out at night. Eat the remaining part of the tomato (just because it is healthy for you). Take it out in the morning before the lights come on,… together with all the snails that gathered there to feast on it….

    in reply to: Supercooled fish #354408

    PJ
    Participant

    With 20-22 degrees and a pH just below 7, your options are only limited to the size of your tank. You are right to forget about Bettas, no cover on your tank and you are likely to lose them to jumping out than catching a cold. For the latter reason you should forget all labyrinths.

    Anout your first heater post,… was that solved? It sounds like a heater with a power too high for the size of your tank.

    in reply to: 55 gallon lighting #354355

    PJ
    Participant

    If the sun shines, does there appear a CO2 apparatus in nature? No,… so more light does not mean you need more CO2 dissolved in your water. You should increase lighting gradually though, because if your plants will not use the energy, algue will.

    Above my 60 litre aquarium I have 18 Watts of LED running at 80% peak power for 4 hours a day. The five hours before and after it gradually changes. Plants are growing just fine. Increasing duration or peak intension gives me green algue, decreasing duration or peak intension gives me brown algue. The pulse width dimmer lets me tune lighting better than I was ever able to with TL’s.

    LED’s not reaching the bottom is complete nonsense. Do you really think that after travelling a few inches a photon will remember where it originated? If you require the same light intensity on the bottom, you will have to place the same intensity above your tank.

    Beware: current LED technology will not save you enough money to pay for the initial invest. At best you will end up with roughly the same total costs over a few years timespan. But the sunrises, sunsets and full control over your lighting is nice to have. Currently here in Europe a 5 channel 200W pulse width dimmer costs € 50. I build my own 20W LED lights at roughly € 50 materials. The same can be bought for € 120 (rgb + ww + cw strip combination).

    in reply to: no filter in a livebearer breeding tank? #354318

    PJ
    Participant

    Last month we had a speaker at our aquarist club who is reknowned for his experience with plants and general aquatic biology. He goes much further and actually takes your question to the limit. His name: Albert Sanderse.

    He runs a breeding tank of 150x50x50 cm, planted with nothing but plastic plants, no filters whatsoever, moderate lighting (plastic plants do not require any). Monthly (!) water changes of 10-15%, at which moments he removes depostis gathered on the gravel 2-3 mm). One every quarter year he infuses his aquarium with fresh bacteria he obtains from the smelly water in the vases that hold the flowers (Chrysanthemums) he gives his wife. Fish (tetras, barbs, labyrinths and small cichlids) breed like crazy, but he is mostly letting the young fight for themselves as he is past reproductive years (83).

    His secret: moving water! He uses only air outlets (the bubble kind) to have a) sufficient warer surface movement and b) general flowing water throughout his tank.

    The reason: in nature it is not the plants providing our fish with O2, but it is the exchange of gasses through the (moving) water surface. It works for the O2 for our fishes, but the plants will have sufficient CO2 for their (normal) daytime assymilation and enough O2 for their nighttime dissimilation (growth).

    The added bacteria will break down anything the fish “produce” and have enough O2 at hand to do so. Very important remark he made: NO huge water changes, as this breaks down general resistance of your fish.

    Same tactic works in a planted aquarium as well. He has a cabinet full of national prizes to prove it.

    I recently have incorporated his “moving water” theory into both my aquarium and plant filter. Immediate effect on the fishes: not hanging just below the water surface at dawn where most of the O2 can be found after the plants have been dissimilating all night,… but they now sleep at their “normal” water depth.

    It is too soon to draw any other conclusions of my own. And it is far too early to get any effects of the bacteria infusion as the Chrysanthemums only died yesterday….

    in reply to: trichopsis vittata ??? (please I.D) #353520

    PJ
    Participant

    Definately Trichopsis. But can be either vittata or schalleri. Difficult to say when not fully grown and/or displaying colours. If you have to put money on it,… choose vittata. Schalleri is very rare and the owner of the tank would probably claim it to be this species if it were schalleri.

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